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February 05, 2009

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this blog includes awesome and in fact fine material for visitors.

I dont think you need the aluminium sheet, you are not triyng to transmit the heat through to water for example or in the case of the sola can items into the air flow inside the can tube, you are just tring to radiate it back into the air. If the foam can take the temperature, I think it should work equally as well if the foam is painted black, the surface should shed the heat back into the air as it passes over the black surface.
+1

Request the bill of sale for the "new" eingne. Unless it came from Chrysler as a crate eingne, it isn't factory-brand new.If the eingne was completely re-built by a trusted eingne re-building shop, it will get better fuel economy than a brand new one from Chrysler. Every part inside a crate eingne from Chrysler is manufactured by the lowest bidder. Chrysler makes the block but nearly all the moving parts inside are furnished by outside suppliers. If the motor was re-built and sold through an auto-parts store it is far from brand new! If this was the case, the eingne is loaded with low dollar parts and nothing was done to measure, machine or hand fit anything.Fuel economy comes from carefully selected pistons and rings and a cylinder hone hone job as per the piston ring manufacturer. The rods, (even if they're brand new) should be re-conditioned. The block decks should be trued-up parallel with the center-line of the crankshaft. The rotating assembly should be balanced. Every bearing should be hand fitted.Small eingnes in big old fat heavy cars don't get as good fuel economy as a light car with a bigger eingne. Your 2000 Jeep Wrangler will never get 28 mpg on trips as will a brand new 430 hp. Grand Sport Corvette.

I'm sure they will be monitored clloesy, but I think we are misunderstanding each other. The environmental impact of drilling will endure for centuries while the economic benefit will be short term. Aside from ecological concerns, there is another matter that should concern us, politics aside. This has for all practical history been called an oil reserve. I'm in the camp that believes we have eclipsed the , but that prediction has been wrong many times before. At any rate, I can't see it being practical to dip into the reserves if we haven't made a good faith effort toward reducing consumption and alternative sources of energy first.

As long as it's just the furnace you are reacpling, you should not have to. It may be more cost-effective to do it now, as R-22 is being phased out, so you may need to upgrade to a R-410 (the new refrigerant)if your A/C unit needs repairs it's illegal to add R-22 to a system now (2010 phase-out). It will be cheaper to do it now while the equipment stack is already being pulled apart and the installers are already there, and you'll get a better deal from your dealer when you package it all. FYI, you won't just replace the compressor. The indoor coil, outdoor unit (fan/housing/compressor/etc), and line-set (refrigerant lines) will all need to be replaced. The new refrigerant operates at a different pressure and requires differently sized pipe.

i installed raniadt baseboard heaters in my house. they work well and were cheap. i think they cost a little more than a gas furnace but the initial cost is much less. i found them at some surplus website, plus i bought some used ones off ebay. they run on 220 and are permanent, not a space heater. i put thermostats on each of them.

Hey, I have been meandering your solar hetear videos and was wondering what your most efficient version is as of yet. Which one moves the most heat into your house or shop. You make great readings of temperature but you haven't mentioned your fan speeds, CFM (unless I missed it). I was looking for a new project and you definitely made up my mind! Thanks for the upload!

We just had an oil tank inspection done on a porrepty we made an offer on. The home was built in the 1940 s and has had one or two owners since then. The report came back negative, but how can that be? There's was no city report that a tank was decommissioned. Should I get a second opinion?

Propane is exnpvsiee but nice. Electricity can be exnpvsiee but if your power goes out you're up a creek. Wood, if you have access to a good economical supply can be good but it is dirty, sooty and can be smelly, but if it's good wood it is worth all that. But for convienience and cost, zoned electric is the best and if the power goes out you fire up the generator!

I disagree, Its all in the way the heetar is built and made. I've been doing this for many years and the use of fiberglass house insulations is the best way to go with a heetar off the house. The lighter the aluminum the better the heetar performs. My 4 8 heetars have performed great at temps of 130 Plus and this was 0-5 deg outside temps. And this is using a car hvac blower motor. Ideally you want to be down around 110 blowing in with adjustable fan rates.

I dont think you need the aluminium sheet, you are not triyng to transmit the heat through to water for example or in the case of the sola can items into the air flow inside the can tube, you are just tring to radiate it back into the air. If the foam can take the temperature, I think it should work equally as well if the foam is painted black, the surface should shed the heat back into the air as it passes over the black surface.

Good on yer Rich, I was pretty happy when I loeggd into you tube and saw you had posted a new video. You have motivated me back to the hobby of my younger years, dirt cheap solar stuff After a few decades working as a tradesman installing and servicing commercial solar water heaters I am fully into the KISS (keep it simple stupid) approach. The more complicated the design the more that goes wrong is my experience I made a video today and I'm waiting for it to upload, I'll send you a link!

Well, that's just it, according to the poeuirvs owner there is another variable for the forced air furnace two different burn cycles. If it kicks on to the higher burn cycle like it would in the morning when it goes from 64 to 71 for example it would use the higher cycle which is less efficient than keeping it at 71 all night using the low burn cycle. That's how he explained it anyway.

If you have vents you can install a rlugear forced air central air system.If you don't have the vents you can install one of the ductless inverter systems from Sanyo or Mitsubishi. They don't require any ductwork and minimal space. They're basically a heat pump so you can get heating and air conditioning. One unit will heat/cool up to four rooms.They're used throughout Europe and the Middle East. They're very efficient and quiet although they are a little pricey. Guess that's the price you pay for a system that doesn't require duct work.

Dear Henry,Thank you for your post and your questions. There are some spaceil considerations to remember when dealing with the newer, higher SEER equipment. I assume that they are referring to the fact that most of the higher SEER pieces of equipment have a variable speed fan. Zoning can work fine with this application. You just need to make sure you set the maximum cfm (fan speed) back to as low as possible while still maintaining good airflow. We recommend the ideal setting to be at 400 cfm/ton. The lower setting will help with the fan wanting to ramp up while still allowing the equipment to ramp up slowly and idle back when all zones are satisfied. A barometric bypass damper will work just fine with most two-position zone dampers and panels. (3) or (4) zone systems work great as long as you install a bypass damper to help with the higher static pressure as zone dampers close. In fact, we sell a great, reliable zone panel that can do up to (6) zones right out of the box! We recommend a barometric bypass damper with two-position dampers. The modulating bypass dampers are too slow to react to the two-position or spring-return dampers. The modulating bypass dampers work best with modulating zone dampers. Please have your contractor contact us for help with their design. Thanks again for your interest and your questions. Please contact us with any further questions.Thanks,Kurt WesslingJackson Systems, LLC

The ductless syestm would be great, but they cost $$$ to buy and install. If you're not using the room frequently, your payback on the ductless syestm won't be worth it.The space heater you describe would do a fine job as long as you remembered to turn it on well in advance. They take a while to get going before they even start heating the room.If the gas fireplace is functional and safe, it would probably be the best choice for intermittent heating. It'll start cranking out the heat as soon as you turn it on and should warm up the room quickly. If the fireplace hasn't been used in a while, I'd strongly suggest getting it checked out before firing it up.

This is the only time I've been to your website. Thank you for posting more information.

Both oil and gas can power a furnace well. Either can work efficiently, depending on the type of furnace. It is also practical to consider replacing the furnace if the conversion will cost as much as purchasing a new furnace.

Why don't you buy a brand new furnace? I think that will be much more efficient in your case, as your oil furnace looks quite old. Well, if it has a sentimental value, then you can keep it, or you can convert into a gas furnace. Either way, the decision is yours.

A few years ago I'd have to pay someone for this informtaion.

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